Athari Jewelry — A Spotlight on Gemstones with Founder Victoria Boninger
INSPIRED BY HER TRAVELS TO MINES IN AFRICA AND SOUTH AMERICA, VICTORIA BONINGER CREATED ATHARI JEWELRY — A CONSCIOUS JEWELRY BRAND WITH TRACEABILITY AT ITS CORE. SHE CREATES TIMELESS DESIGNS THAT EMPOWER MINING COMMUNITIES AND CELEBRATE THE BEAUTY OF PRECIOUS GEMSTONES. THIS FOUNDER INTERVIEW DIVES INTO HER TRANSFORMATIVE JOURNEY FROM THE LUXURY FASHION INDUSTRY TO CRAFTING MEANINGFUL JEWELRY, DRIVEN BY A PASSION FOR TRANSPARENCY AND RESPONSIBLE CRAFTSMANSHIP.
words by SARAH MARIE DAY
photographs COURTESY OF BRAND
Sarah Marie Day: What is the essence of Atari Jewelry?
Victoria Boninger: I want to connect the customer back to the origin of gemstones and bring traceability into the world of fine jewelry. I think that most customers are very disconnected from the origin of goods that we consume. Leveraging my expertise in gemology, I want to provide a deeper, behind-the-scenes perspective, offering not just a beautiful piece of jewelry, but also the added value of understanding its story and journey!
Where did you gain your knowledge about the jewelry industry, and how has it shaped what you’re doing differently with Athari Jewelry?
My first insight into the gemstone supply chain came during my studies at the Gemological Institute of America, where I learned about the origins of various gemstones and their journey from mines to customers. I discovered that while official estimates suggest a stone passes through ten hands, the reality is often far more complex, with countless intermediaries involved. This cash-based industry is rife with smuggling, making it nearly impossible for a buyer in Europe to trace a stone’s origin. That realization raised important questions for me. If I were to spend significant money on fine jewelry, I’d want to ensure it was ethically sourced, free of exploitation or conflict. Movies like Blood Diamond highlight the harsh realities in politically unstable countries, where child labor and lack of regulations prevail. This drove me to explore the supply chain firsthand and seek ways to bring more transparency to the industry.
Where do you source the gemstones for your designs?
Different gemstones have distinct origins, each tied to unique regions around the world. My first explorative journey took me to Tanzania in East Africa, followed by Namibia. My debut collection was sourced from Zimbabwe, in collaboration with the world’s first women-only mine—an inspiring milestone in the industry. The upcoming collection, set to launch this month, features gemstones sourced from Ouro Preto, Brazil, a region renowned for its rich history of gem and gold mining.
“My debut collection was sourced from Zimbabwe, in collaboration with the world’s first women-only mine—an inspiring milestone in the industry.”
— Victoria Boninger, Founder of Athari Jewelry
It’s fascinating you’re travelING to the mines yourself! Can you share more about why this is a priority to you?
In the beginning, I was driven by curiosity and a desire to educate myself about the origins of gemstones. The jewelry industry is packed with greenwashing, and I wanted to paint my own picture, I wanted to see everything with my own eyes. With my jewellery brand, I want to be able to give a promise with my name and the brand's name to the customer. So the only way to guarantee the ethical prominence of every single gemstone is by having seen the working conditions and having seen the miners, having spoken to them, having that personal connection and touch point. I truly care a lot and that’s why it’s important to me to take that extra step.
That’s a great thing! Let's talk about your first collection, can you tell us more about the gemstones and about your experience at the mines?
I had the connection to the women-owned mine in Zimbabwe from my travels the previous year. Mining is traditionally seen as arduous, physical work, so women rarely participate in this field. Yet this initiative has proven that these women are just as capable as men, and the empowerment it brings is incredible. It's amazing for them to earn their own money, to not be dependent on their husbands, to contribute something to their household. And there is a lot of illegal mining happening in the region. So, working for, a fixed employer gives them a lot of stability that they usually don't have in their lives. The mine’s aquamarine stones are beautiful, they have a soul. They are these stunning pale blue gemstones. I didn’t go looking for aquamarine—it found me. What drew me in was the story behind the mine and the impact it has on these women’s lives. When I visited in April, I shared meals with them, listened to their stories, and saw firsthand how this work has helped single mothers escape abusive situations and provide for their children, even sending them to school—a privilege many couldn’t previously afford. This mine also prioritizes sustainability. After mining, they rehabilitate the land by filling in the holes and planting vegetables and greenery. It’s inspiring to witness a model that supports both people and the planet.
For anyone who is new to the mining industry and gemstones, can you describe what illegal mining means?
Mining requires a license, as the land is either government-owned or privately held. However, in regions where poverty is widespread, people often resort to illegal mining, driven by the hope of discovering something that could transform their lives. While it’s hard to blame them for seeking a way out of hardship, this unregulated practice is incredibly dangerous. Without oversight or accountability, these individuals face significant risks, and when accidents occur, no one is held liable. It’s a stark reminder of the desperation and dangers tied to the mining industry in such areas.
That makes sense. How was it like to go underground to the mines?
Every mine that I buy gemstones from, I go underground myself, and depending on the mineral, it goes anywhere from like five meters to 50 meters to 500 meters below the surface. I’ve experienced everything from crawling through narrow tunnels on all fours to descending into dark, seemingly endless shafts by rope. In Zimbabwe, the aquamarine mine was an open-pit operation—a relatively safe approach, with a large hole in the ground rather than underground tunnels. In tunnel mining, the risks are far greater; the ceilings can collapse, making it a highly dangerous endeavor. These experiences have deepened my respect for the miners and the challenges they face daily!
“Every mine that I buy gemstones from, I go underground myself, and depending on the mineral, it goes anywhere from like five meters to 50 meters to 500 meters below the surface.”
— Victoria Boninger, Founder of Athari Jewelry
Does each mine have one kind of stone, or do you find different types of stones in one mine sometimes?
Miners primarily focus on extracting the most precious stones, but they often uncover trace minerals along the way. For instance, quartz is a common byproduct. When I visited a tourmaline mine in Brazil this past August for my new collection, I also discovered garnets. While garnets are less valuable than tourmalines, their presence is a natural indicator that tourmalines are nearby. It’s fascinating how nature provides these subtle clues—when the earth is rich in minerals, you see all kinds of different gemstones.
You just mentioned your second collection. Which gemstone is the new collection centered around?
This August, I traveled to the Minas Gerais region of Brazil, where I visited three different mines and ultimately sourced gemstones from one of them. I purchased two stunning colors of tourmaline—a rich dark green and pink. Tourmaline actually is the gemstone variety that comes in the most colors. I think adding two colors brings more of a dynamic and depth into a collection. Visiting the birthplace of these minerals is just magical, going underground, and seeing exactly where these gems have been growing for millions of years. It's very intimate and very romantic in a way.
That's incredible. Are you ever scared going into those mines, what are your emotions when you when you go there?
It’s like with any dangerous activity—the more you do it, the less intimidating it feels. That doesn’t change the inherent risks, but there’s definitely an addictive thrill to it. I only go underground once, spending about an hour down there, but there are people who work in these conditions every single day, for years. If they can do it, I know I can do it too. I’m not better than them, and if they’re able to work under such challenging conditions, I should be fine exploring, taking images, and learning more. But there are moments when I pause and wonder, “If something were to happen, who would even know I’m down here?”
I can see that! What did you do before starting your own brand?
My background is in fashion, I was part of the buying team at Net-a-Porter in London. Working for such a large company, selling millions of pounds’ worth of product daily to customers worldwide, exposed me to fast-moving, mass-produced goods. Initially, the excitement of luxury fashion and beautiful objects was appealing, but over time, the sheer scale of consumption felt overwhelming. After four years, I decided to leave that behind and pursue my passion for jewelry. I had previously been an assistant buyer for the jewelry team at Net-a-Porter, so I was already familiar with the product category. I wanted to learn more about the origins of gemstones—their formation, rarity, and how they’re sourced. I also wanted to understand the fascination with diamonds and other precious stones. So, I enrolled in an intensive six-month gemology program, and the more I learned, the more I realized I was in the right place. By the time I was 26, I felt fortunate to have found my true calling. My curiosity only deepened as I learned more, and I became determined to explore the first step of the gemstone supply chain: the countries where these stones are mined and formed. To understand the industry better, I decided to go directly to the source. In 2023, I spent nine weeks in Africa, visiting mines and seeing how gemstones are cut and polished. Watching a rough stone transform from a dull pebble to a sparkling gem was fascinating—the process is incredibly intricate and requires a great deal of skill to bring out the stone's full beauty.
“Watching a rough stone transform from a dull pebble to a sparkling gem was fascinating—the process is incredibly intricate and requires a great deal of skill to bring out the stone's full beauty.”
— Victoria Boninger, Founder of Athari Jewelry
What was the moment when you decided to start your own jewelry brand?
My experiences in Africa had a profound impact on me, and I shared my journey of visiting the mines with my friends and social media community. People were fascinated because they had never seen that side of the industry before, and it felt like I was onto something. I felt like an Indiana Jones of diamonds and gemstones. After returning to London, I worked as a business development manager for another jewelry brand, but my adventures in Africa didn’t leave me alone. I couldn’t stop thinking about it. When my job for the other jewellery brand ended, I knew I had to do something with what I had learned in Africa. I decided to take the plunge and never looked back, it was the best decision I ever made. There’s something incredibly empowering about pursuing exactly what you’re meant to do!
“There’s something incredibly empowering about pursuing exactly what you’re meant to do!”
— Victoria Boninger, Founder of Athari Jewelry
That’s beautiful! What was the first piece you’ve designed?
The first piece I created was a souvenir for myself from the first mine I ever visited. It was a way to remember the incredible adventure I had in Africa as a 27-year-old. The stone I chose is called Tanzanite—it's 1,000 times rarer than diamonds and can only be found in one place in the world. Visiting that mine in Tanzania left such a lasting impression on me that I knew I had to buy a stone. When I returned to London, I made a ring for myself using that Tanzanite, which has this stunning mix of blue and purple hues. It’s a reminder of why I started this journey. I’ve always loved rings—they’re my favorite category, and I know I’ll wear this one forever.
Let's talk about the name. How did you come up with the name Atari?
Athari means "impact" in Swahili, one of the native languages of Tanzania. As I mentioned, Tanzania was the first country I visited, and it was also where I visited my first mine. What I aim to do with Athari is create a positive impact on the mining communities in the countries where I source my gemstones. I want to bring traceability and education to customers, helping them understand the journey of the stones they wear. For me, if you're not making an impact, then what’s the point of doing it?
“Athari means impact in Swahili. What I aim to do with Athari is create a positive impact on the mining communities in the countries where I source my gemstones!”
— Victoria Boninger, Founder of Athari Jewelry
I feel like the pandemic has inspired many of us to reflect on our impact and pursue our passions to create a better world. That’s such a beautiful name! Do your pieces have individual names, or are they grouped by collection and numbered?
Interestingly, no one has asked this question before, but for my first collection, which launched this April, I named each piece after a historical female leader or figure. The connection was important because the collection was entirely made by women, and I’m deeply inspired by the strength of women. I wanted to dedicate both the collection and its names to these powerful female figures.
What kind of metals do you use? And where do you get them?
My goal is to keep the supply chain as short as possible, so I partner with a supplier who gets the gold straight from the mine in the Ivory Coast. Normally, gold is extracted from many different places, melted down, and thrown into one pot, which makes it impossible to know its origin. But with my supply chain, I can trace it all the way back. The brand is truly unique because it’s 100% traceable—no other brand I’m familiar with can say that. Every gram of gold I use is sourced directly from the mine. I work with solid yellow and white gold, never plating, because I want these pieces to be lasting and treasured for many years. This is fine jewelry, not demi-fine or anything else. There's quite a few brands who work with recycled gold, and there's often some greenwashing in that.
“Normally, gold is extracted from many different places, melted down, and thrown into one pot, which makes it impossible to know its origin.”
— Victoria Boninger, Founder of Athari Jewelry
Is recycled gold a way of greenwashing?
It's a controversial topic. I’ve chosen traceability so I can guarantee the origins of every stone and every gram of gold, knowing the people and locations involved. With recycled gold, while it avoids using virgin materials, its origins are often unclear—it could come from illegal mining or conflict zones or involve child labor. Ultimately, it’s up to the customer to decide what they value most.
What are your thoughts on lab-grown diamonds versus natural diamonds?
In my opinion, it’s not as simple as saying natural diamonds are bad and lab-grown diamonds are good; it really depends on the company. Most lab-grown diamonds come from large factories in China, and while the term “lab” sounds clean and pristine, these factories don’t always have the best working conditions. Additionally, producing lab-grown diamonds requires a significant amount of energy, as they need heat and pressure to form, which makes them far from environmentally friendly. While you can say that lab-grown diamonds don’t involve slavery or conflict, calling them sustainable isn’t fully accurate.
Very interesting! Let’s talk about the designs—what inspires you in the design process?
I always say I don't consider myself a jewelry designer, because I don't want to take away that from the skill of actual people that studied the design. To me, it comes quite naturally. When I select the stones at the mine, and as soon as I hold one, I know it will make a gorgeous ring or necklace. My design inspiration comes from the countries I visit, as well as from the beauty I see in London every day—whether it's the architecture, fashion, or art. I’m constantly inspired whenever I step out of the house, and I design with a cosmopolitan woman in mind, which I hope is reflected in my work.
absolutely. Where are the jewelry pieces produced?
The first collection, featuring aquamarines, was crafted in Valenza, Italy, known as the "City of Gold" for its rich history in gold manufacturing and trade. The upcoming tourmaline collection, however, is being made in London’s Hatton Garden, the city’s jewelry quarter. Managing the process in London is much easier for me—there’s no language barrier, and I can visit the workshop daily without the need for hotels or long-distance travel. I’ve also found a fantastic team here.
Besides the website, where can the jewelry pieces be bought?
I'm actually hosting a pop up on December 1st in Notting Hill, in London. It will be co-hosted with some other sustainable brands. We rented a store just off Westbourne Grove on Ledbury Road. I think pop ups are the way to move forward and I’ll participate in more throughout the next year.
What has been a challenge in starting your your journey as an entrepreneur?
For me, the hardest part is finding a routine that works for you. Because you don't start at nine o'clock, you don't finish at five o'clock, and you don't do a lunch break in the middle of the day, you can decide what's important on that specific day. There's no one to enforce a schedule. It's easy to take an afternoon off, but I remind myself every day that I'm my own boss, and progress depends on my discipline. There's always more to do, and it's up to me to make it happen.
Do you have any tips that you've learned so far as an entrepreneur, anything you can share with other people who might have just started their own brand?
Starting your own business means it’s on your mind 24/7. Every outing feels like business development, every social interaction becomes a chance to tell people about your brand and spread the word, but sometimes maybe you have to step out of that role and resist seeing every moment as an opportunity to keep a balance.
What was a proud moment in your journey with Athari so far?
One of my proudest moments was showing my first collection designs to the miners. They’ve never seen what happens to the stones after they find them, so it was a shared moment of pride—me showcasing my work and them seeing their labor transformed into finished pieces. Seeing their reaction, especially with the polished stones on a model, was incredible. Another highlight was my first editorial in Elle Egypt and getting my first newspaper article in print. It's so it's so beautiful when you see that recognition, and when you just feel like: “Oh, this idea I had, I actually made it into something real and something tangible." I think that's that's quite emotional. When you’re starting out and doing everything yourself, every little win feels monumental!
Which piece Do you personally wear the most?
My best friends gave me the most meaningful gift at my launch—something from my first collection for me to keep. It’s the round aquamarine pendant. They all contributed a little bit of money to buy it for me as a memory of starting this journey. It was such an emotional and beautiful gesture. As a brand, you want to sell everything and make your money back, but having that one piece to hold onto means so much to me!
“My best friends gave me the most meaningful gift at my launch—something from my first collection for me to keep.”
— Victoria Boninger, Founder of Athari Jewelry
That is so thoughtful. You have amazing friends! Do you have any tips on how people can keep their jewelry pieces in good condition?
To care for your jewelry, gently clean it with a soft toothbrush, mild soap, and warm water to remove dirt. For a deeper clean, many jewelry stores offer ultrasonic cleaning services. Store your pieces separately to avoid them rubbing against each other, and keep them in a shady place, as some stones are sensitive to sunlight. Additionally, certain gemstones shouldn’t come into contact with water, so be mindful of that as well.
This question I ask all founders I interview: at Luméra we want to shine a spotlight on people who have a good impact in the fashion industry. If you could hold that spotlight on other people or brands, who would it be?
Jeanne Zizi Margot de Kroon, the founder of Zazi Vintage, is such an incredible role model and a huge inspiration for me. She's a European woman, like us, and her journey is so impactful. She started as a model, witnessing the darker sides of the fashion industry—fast fashion and overconsumption. Through her travels, she connected with talented female artisans in remote areas, collaborating with them to create unique collections. Jeanne's been building her brand for around 10 years, starting so young, and her work aligns with what I aim to do in mining and gemstones—bringing traceability, sustainability, and a deep respect for the origins of the craft. She's truly pioneering in her field!
That’s amazing! Let’s do the rapid fire questions. What’s your favorite spot for a drink in London?
Chiltern Firehouse in Marylebone, sitting inside. Especially during the winter it’s such a romantic spot!
Your favorite coffee or matcha spot in London?
I don’t drink coffee, but I’m a matcha lover. My favorites are Hjem in Kensington, Café Kitsune in Belgravia and How Matcha in Marylebone.
Favorite restaurant in London?
Sumi in Notting Hill, amazing sushi and the matcha layered cake is the best dessert in town!
Where do you go to recharge?
For me, recharging is a workout class. I love going to pilates here in Kensington, it's a 60 minutes class, and afterwards, I feel reborn.
last book you’ve read?
I’m currently reading The Power of Now. It’s been recommended by so many friends, though I find it a bit challenging to get through. That said, I feel like I’m already living out its core lesson: staying present in the moment. It’s such a beautiful mindset to embrace.
Further Reading
